The Other Side of Fear

As I write this, I am one week out from leaving Denver and heading to Anchorage, Alaska. From there, weather permitting, I’m one more day away from landing on the Kahiltna Glacier and beginning my 13,000 foot ascent (~7000’ to … Continued

Common Effort of Will and Strength

Many a mountaineer has mentioned at one time or another that mountaineering is ‘the kind of thing that is fun to talk about when you’re done.’ That is to say, the act of mountaineering, itself, is sometimes the farthest thing … Continued

When Nobody’s Watching

  My knee has heeled to the point where I can begin climbing, again, in the variable conditions you get when you leave the safe confines of the gym. When preparing for an expedition, gym work is important as it … Continued

Six Years in the Making

“Am I ready? I’m putting in the hours… into planning, into training, into mental preparation. But am I ready?” This is a necessary thought. Certainly, it can be destructive if you let it fester into self-doubt; but without this thought, … Continued

Only Half Done

Another Quote from Aristotle: “Well begun is half done.” It’s been a busy two-to-three weeks for team Rocky Mountain Sourdoughs, as we prepare for Denali. The bulk of the team has been out on a few hut trips. I have … Continued

The Habit of Excellence

Aristotle wrote, “Excellence is an art won by training and habituation. We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence, but we rather have those because we have acted rightly. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, … Continued

The Myth of Solutions

If you’ve been reading any of my previous posts, you know that my Denali team and I are preparing to take on the West Rib Cutoff route this coming June. The Cutoff takes the standard West Buttress route from an … Continued

The Line Between Disorder and Order

A lot of things about climbing can be viewed as walking a “line between disorder and order.” Admittedly, quite a bit of what we do is a bit out on the edge. That being said, for me personally, climbing is … Continued

Sharpening the Ax

Every big climb starts with fitness. I’m as big into logistics and planning as any climber, probably more so; but in the end, your body must be able to execute the plan. You cannot see sunrises like the one I … Continued